Name it: Solving training problems

Now that we've established that there is a problem, we need to name it. This requires a few important things from all of us: First, we cannot be kennel-blind. All dogs have faults. There are no perfect dogs. In order to help our training progress, we need to be completely and sometimes brutally honest with ourselves about both the dog and the training we've done.

Second, we have to recognize that we humans make mistakes as well. Sometimes when things aren't going right, it's the dog; sometimes it's the handler; and sometimes it's both. The sooner we recognize our imperfections, the sooner we can correct them. It is unfair to demand more of our dogs than we demand of ourselves.

Before you can fix anything, you have to be able to recognize that it is not working correctly. It's kind of like dealing with household repairs:

If there's a leak under the kitchen sink, it has to be fixed and fixed correctly in order to work without leaking. If you see water dripping, obviously there's a leak somewhere. If your dog is consistently making a mistake, there's a leak in the training. That's admitting you have a problem. If you ignore the plumbing it won't heal itself — it'll still be leaking when you look again. If you ignore your dog's mistakes, the same mistake will continue to be there; and just like the leak under the sink, it will probably get worse until it makes a major mess.

So how do we handle the problem? There are two choices: We can call a plumber (find a good dog trainer), or we can track down the problem by process of elimination and then fix it ourselves. It may be as simple as a loose fitting, or as complicated as a cracked pipe. Whatever the root of the problem is, we need to find it before it can be fixed. That's "naming the problem."

Enough about plumbing. Let's put this analogy to work with bird dogs. (Keep in mind that we're not talking about retrieving in this article, although some of this can pertain to the trained retrieve.)

The Silent Command System puts heavy emphasis on the basics, methodically ingraining them in each dog via repetition and routine. There is a very good reason for this. These basics are not just the foundations of training — they are the cure for whatever problems may arise throughout your dog's hunting career. Without solidly programmed basics, there is no foundation on which to build, and nothing to fall back on when problems arise.

A dog that is well-schooled in the basics will be easily tuned up if something comes undone. All it takes is a brief refresher course in whatever basic skill has slipped, and the dog will come right back into line.

Your dog is breaking on shot or on flush. The root of the problem: The dog is not standing still.

Your dog is hunting out of range. The root of the problem: The dog is not going with you.

Your dog is busting birds, blinking birds, chasing birds, etc. The root of the problem: The dog is not standing still.

Your dog decides not to come when called, refuses to be caught, or chooses to stop and eat a bird rather than bring it to you. The root of the problem: The dog is not coming to you.

Your dog refuses to honor another dog's point. The root of the problem: The dog is not standing still.

Your dog runs off and or self-hunts. The root of the problem: The dog is not going with you.

"But my dog is busting birds," you say, "and I have to correct him when he's making the mistake!" The mistake is not that the dog is busting birds. The problem is that the dog is refusing to stand still. We'd be willing to bet that the same dog who is refusing to stand still when birds fly will also not stand still around other distractions either. If the dog will consistently stand still any time, anywhere, whenever it is told to, without moving until released, it's not likely to bust birds.

Go back and work through all the basic steps from the chain gang to the lead, to the checkcord to the "whoa" post, and the e-collar, if you are using one. Start by working through the steps in your backyard or training area, and when they are solid there again, move to other locations such as a friend's yard or an open field. Work your dog in fields where you know there are no birds, so the temptation is removed until the problem is corrected. Don't go back to working the dog on birds until you're completely confident in its ability to stand still when told for as long as you ask.

The same holds true for other problems, such as a dog that will not come to you. Leave birds out of the equation altogether. Go back to the same steps as above, starting with the chain gang and working through until the solution is reached. In the case of a dog not coming to you or not going with you, this means going from the chain to the lead to the checkcord, and finally the remote cue of the e-collar.

If the training was correct the first time around, a refresher course in simple things like leading and checkcording will take no time at all. Why skip them and possibly cause even more problems just because you were in a hurry?

When tuning up a dog that is ignoring your command to come to you, it is important to remember this: Never give the dog a command you cannot enforce.

In other words, if you're not in a training situation with the appropriate tools available, don't ask the dog to come. Wait until you've worked through the steps and reinforced the command.

If you've been working on getting your dog to come, you can undo all that hard work by allowing the dog to get away with not coming. This may mean that the dog doesn't get off the checkcord or lead for a while, and that's okay. It takes as long as it takes. If we expect less than 100 percent from our dogs, how can we ever expect to get 100 percent from them? The same goes for ourselves as trainers.

Take a few minutes before you go out to work your dog to think things through and have your plan in place in your mind before you touch your dog.

Know what the problem is, and be able to name it.

Then know what you need to tune your dog up, and work toward the end result. Break down the problem into components, and then methodically work your way through until everything is back to where it should be.

Another reminder: Be absolutely sure that your dog understands that you are at the top of the pecking order, or you'll have even more problems to contend with.

There is much to be gained from reinforcing these basic commands, and a refresher course every now and again is a good thing. Training is an ongoing process and lasts a lifetime. Think of these tuneups for your dog in the same way many of us do additional job training courses to keep our skills fresh.

Not only will it make your dog a pleasure to hunt with and live with, but it also may just save its life someday when your dog is headed toward a busy street or some other danger. Knowing that you can stop your dog in its tracks or call it to you immediately without hesitation is pretty comforting, as well as cheap insurance. Take the time to keep your dog tuned and trained with a refresher course on the basics, and you can spend less time fixing problems and will have more time to spend hunting.

All problems with bird dogs have a basis in one of three things: The dog is not coming to you, the dog is not going with you, or the dog is not standing/sitting still.